The sharp 700m peak of Nissyros can’t be missed on the seas south of Kos, where the dormant volcano still mutters below a spectacular bare crust of two craters, though it last rumbled in 1933.  The site and smells of the crater are well worth a trip up, by bus or taxi from the main port of Mandraki, and perhaps a three hour walk back down through some old marked paths. On the heights are two small quaint villages with fabulous views over to the next island of Tilos, and sometimes to Rhodes.  Linger on the harbour or in the next fishing harbour of Palli , in the quiet of late afternoon for some special dishes of the island.